NOTE: The Harlow Fire burned
20,000 acres in two hours, destroying 105 structures and
claiming two lives.
This is
one of the fastest spreading wildfires ever recorded.
HARLOW FIRE - Part - 1
The
day that the Harlow Fire made the big run from CHOWCHILLA
RIVER, burned
AHWAHNEE and NIPINNAWASEE, and came right to the
outskirts
of COARSEGOLD, I
had to be at the ELLIOTTS, and was going back to
our
ranch in MADERA COUNTY.
I could see that this fire was starting to burn
south
at a rapid rate, so 1
drove through AHWAHNEE and headed down to POISON
SWITCH
(on Road 600). I
felt that the fire and I were going to get to
POISON
SWITCH at about the
same time. The fire and I did get to POISON
SWITCH about
the same time and
there was a large green, grassy area there where
I parked
the pickup and
rolled the windows up so it wouldn't catch fire.
There
was a highway
patrolman parked there and he drove off, dust
a-flying.
I grabbed my shovel
and got across the river and CROOKS CREEK to see
if any
sparks had come
across and I could stop them. But a whole shower
of sparks
came down and
very shortly I could see that it was a lost
cause. About
that time, Jim
KATES drove by in a pickup and he continued on
towards
AHWAHNEE right
through the flames. I thought if he can do it, I
can
too. I got in my
pickup and started out and I drove through a
wall of
flame near where the
VETERANS OF FOREIGN WARS is now.
Just
past the hall, I could see a woman was still there.
It was a woman we
had previously known; she had been
Missed when the people wee evacuated. I
knew that
to be hauled out of there
in very short order or she’d burn to death
because there
was a big, downed
bull pine behind her cabin. She was in her
nightdress;
I kept urging her to
get some clothes on and to grab her valuables
and I’d
take her out of there.
She said she didn’t want to leave. I told her,
“Lady,
if you don’t get some
clothes on and get your valuables, I’m just
going to
have to put you in the
pickup and haul you out like you are.” After a
long wait,
she did get some
outer clothes on and I got her in the pickup and
drove
her up to the MECHHI’
S store and left her there. I went back to the
woman’s
place because I had
seen a man across the street from her house who
looked
like he was going to
stay there and try to save his buildings. When I
returned,
it turned out the
man was one I had known all my life, Jim JORDAN.
HARLOW FIRE - Part -2
By
this time the fire was right
close to his dwellings and the power supply
was all gone; what little water
they had was in their tea kettles and pots.
He had mowed around his place
with a power mower and the grass was pretty
short. I told the family I
thought we’d be fine and we could probably save
their buildings. About this
time, a herd of cattle came up out of the FRESNO
RIVER to the fence with the
fire right behind them. I grabbed the axe out of
my pickup and cut the fence
down in several places so that the cattle could
get out to the road (Road 600).
They disappeared towards AHWAHNEE or
OAKHURST. By that
time, the fire had reached several buildings; the butane
tanks had caught and were whistling
as the butane burned. Right next to my
friend’s house was a horse
pasture and a couple of horses. The horses just
went berserk but they were
in a “fed off” pasture and I figured they were
safer there than any place
else, so we just left them. We did save my friend
’s house and that of the woman
he rented the place from. Across the street,
the bus driver HOLDSCLAW
had a house and there
was no one there. Jim Jordan and I also saved the
HOLDSCLAW house. These three
houses and a couple more were all the houses
left in Ahwahnee and Nipinnawasee.
When
I drove back towards ELLIOTT’S,
MECCHI’S store had burned, CROOKS store
had burned, and all the dwellings
along the way. In all that time, I never
saw a forestry vehicle in AHWAHNEE.
I found out later why. The (State)
Forest Service men had been
down towards the CHOWCHILLA RIVER. This fire had
swept over them and trapped
them in the CHOWCHILLA BASIN. (U.S.) Forest
Service did have a fire camp
on the WORMAN’S property with maybe
two-hundred-fifty men and vehicles.
When I drove in there and told them
there wasn’t much left of
AHWAHNEE or NIPINNAWASEE, they couldn’t believe
it.
Bob JORDAN had a big house just
past the store but it burned. There were
JORDANS who lived across the
Street who stayed and saved
two houses.
On
the third day of the Harlow
Fire, it was probably a quarter of a mile
north of Coarsegold and extended
from there north to the
Fresno rive. At 9o’clock in the morning a crew had
been assembled by Fritz KONKLIN
a forest ranger. When I showed up, he asked
if I would “fire” a bulldozer
line to the line to the Fresno River with a
torch. He sent along a Mexican
boy named Porfino “Porfy” GARCIA to help.
There
was a local man, Enos SHAUBACH
with a bulldozer and he started building a
line from where the highway
and the fire met above COARSEGOLD to the north,
toward the Fresno River. We
“fired” this line with a method used many times
by local firefighters. We set
the first fire well inside from the dozer
line; then “Porfy” came along
right at the fireline, setting backfires as
fast as he could walk. It took
about an hour and a half; we fired this line
clear to the FRESNO RIVER.
Fritz and the crews came along behind to see that
there were no “spots” or “slop-over
fires” on this line. When we got to the
bluff of the FRESNO RIVER,
Fritz stopped us from firing and said that Henry
BOHNA, who is a COARSEGOLD
resident, knew more about the area going down
into the river and that he
would fire that. The hope was to keep the fire on
the east side of the river.
We
held up firing on down the
fire line while Henry fired way back in the
fire to pull the fire away
from us. Things didn’t work out just as planned
as the fire crowned up through
the bull pines and leaned over the
FRESNO RIVER. It set fires
in one-hundred places on the north side of the
river! Our bulldozer man had
anticipated this and had his tractor on the
other side of the river. He
was able, on his own, to contain the fire on the
north side of the river! After
that, we fired the fire line on down into the
FRESNO RIVER and this contained
the HARLOW FIRE on the south side towards
COARSEGOLD.
Excerpted from “AS WE WERE TOLD” A publication of the Coarsegold Historical Society, it is an oral and written history of Eastern Madera County California. It is a wonderful book and a great resource. There may still be copies available.
submitted by Harriet Sturk
HARLOW
FIRE & MARIPOSA COUNTY
Part -1-
Another Perspective
The
HARLOW FIRE started in MARIPOSA
COUNTY and burned south and east to the
top of DEADWOOD MOUNTAIN
at COARSEGOLD. Approximately 250 homes were
destroyed. The little town
of NIPINNAWASEE, about nine miles above OAKHURST
on Highway 49, was leveled
except for the school and one house. The school,
first opened in 1912, was named
after Craig CUNNINGHAM who was the
Superintendent of Schools of
MADERA COUNTY at the time the school was built.
I went to school there in 1916.
This school has more recently been moved to
OAKHURST to the SIERRA HISTORIC
SITES MUSEUM..
The Harlow Fire started coming southeast. Instead of backfiring in front of it, the firefighters backed off and tried to build a fireline to hold it. The State didn’t believe in backfiring then so the fire got such a start they just couldn’t stop it. When they finally did stop it, it was in the area of the top of DEADWOOD and Highway 41, on the south side of DEADWOOD MOUNTAIN.. My brother, Ned, and I had a sawmill at AHWAHNEE and I had a sawmill at AHWAHNEE and the fire burned it, along with all the lumber, all the logging Equipment, and our house.
Bill HULL and the KISER boys saved the school; the boys were high school age. Some of the personal suffering can be described like this: I couldn’t get any news about my mother or brother and it wasn’t until the next day that I learned they had gone near a pond until they could get to OAKHURST to spend the night.
My
mother lost her house and
everything else. My brother had a pressure
system on the well; he had
lots of water in the well, but when the power
line burned through and dropped
down, that was the end of the power. He
never knew where it came from,
but there was a big piece of tarpaper roofing
that came through on the wind.
It was on fire and landed on the roof of his
house. Everything was so hot
that when it hit that roof-- woof!!! They were
lucky to save themselves! They
came down to the old reservoir across the
road from the
ROUNDHOUSE. Lots of people
went to that reservoir; if it got too hot, they
could wade into it and save
themselves.
Fresno
Bee- July 23, 1961
METCALF: Never Saw Anything Like Harlow Fire in 35 Years
By Earl M. Kidder
Early in the
morning of July 10th a wisp of smoke ws spotted lazily drifting up-ward
near the Sierra foothill area in Mariposa County known as Usona.
By 4 PM the next day, this wisp had developed into a raging inferno
which killed two people, destroyed more than 90 homes and eventually
was to spread over 43,000 acres of grass, brush and timber.
This was the Harlow Fired, one of the worst in foothill history
In a two hour period on July 11, the Harlow inferno flashed over 18,800
acres, taking with it the towns of Nipinawasee and Ahwahnee. It
sent flaming fingers dangerously close to the towns of Coarsegold and
Oakhurst before it roared on northeast toward the Yosemite Forks on
Highway 41.
Mountain folk will long discuss the Harlow. So will the hundreds of firefighters, both volunteers and professional who finally licked it at 10 PM July 15th.
Most of the
fire was on land protected by the state division of forestry. It
threatened the adjoining Sierra National Forest. Both agencies
fought it, tooth and nail, but the main responsibility probably was the
state's.
Now, a little
more than a week since the Harlow was halted, Cecil E. Metcalf, the
deputy state forester for the division with jurisdiction in the San
Joaquin valley, sums up the six day fight. It will be weeks
before the loss; totals in property, watershed and other damage can be
assessed.
"This much I
can say for sure," Metcalf says. "In 35 years of firefighting,
I've never encountered a situation like the one which faced us when the
Harlow blew up north of Nipinnawasee. I'd already radioed for
reinforcements, but they arrived too late."
Suppression
efforts have been criticized by many of those who lost their homes, and
stoutly defended by those, who directed the battle. True, there were
errors. And there was confusion compounded by hysteria.
Communications
broke down, and law enforcement agencies were hard pressed, with
limited personnel, to keep everyone in the Fire's path apprised of what
was going on.
"When the
firestorm hit, everyone was on the state and federal radio networks,
hollering for help," Metcalf said. "Everyone wanted fire trucks
and firemen. We simply didn't have them available, because every
man and each piece of equipment was fighting the Harlow in the
accepted way at the head."
Craig Chandler,
a meteorologist for the forest service, is an expert on fire
behavior. He explains the pattern of the Harlow between 3 and 6
PM on July 11 this way;
"It was an
extreme example of what can happen when fire, burning in dry fuels,
combines with an unstable atmosphere. Atmospheric stability refers to
the tendency of fires to form a chimney of hot gasses.
"When stability
is high, fires have a low chimney, and burn slowly, like the flames in
a fireplace with the damper partially closed. As the atmosphere becomes
more unstable, the damper is opened and fires burn hotter and begin to
create their own winds."
Winds at ground
level that day were relatively calm. But at 1,500 feet, they were
blowing briskly from the north-west. When the fire moved into
heavy and dry brush near Metcalf Gap it flared up, creating its own
convection column.
"This flo,
filled with burning embers and debris, soared upward to meet the
prevailing high velocity winds," Chandler says. "Since these were
moving to the southeast, spot fires were started ahead of the fire
which, in turn, created more heat and more winds to start more spot
fires.
"The result was
a full scale, moving, firestorm with three distinct heads
following areas of heavy fuels, but all moving generally to the
southeast. One burned through Nipinnawasee, but broke down when
the fuel type changed to open woodland.
"A second arm
burned through Ahwahnee but also ran into light fuels before reaching
Oakhurst. The third head centered down Cock Creek and the Upper
Fresno River, but was pulled to the south by spot fires building up on
the slopes of Deadwood Mountains.
"By 6 PM the
main fire-storm had lost its identity."
Every day
during the course of the Harlow, Metcalf, Walter J. Puhn, the
supervisor of the Sierra National FOrest, and their fire bosses and
lieutenants held emergency meetings. These were called at 4 and
10 AM and 4 and 10 PM. Strategy was discussed, and errors
noted.
Many residents
of the threatened communities wanted to start their own backfires when
the firestorm started boiling up. This was not allowed because,
as Metcalf explains:
"There were
several hundred firefighters ahead of the route such fires would have
taken. We could easily have lost them, along with their
equipment."
Metcalf said
Dr. S. M. Wagerselder, the director of the Ahwahnee Sanitarium, was
notified of possible danger to the many buildings in the health center
complex. He elected not to evacuate.
Firemen started
backfires frantically in an effort to hold the main blaze and
fire-storm away from Nipinnawasee and Ahwahnee. Residents hosed their
roofs and house walls until pumps were stopped when power was lost.
On July 6th,
four days before the Harlow, a public meeting was called by Jack Owens,
the chief of the Oakhurst Volunteer Fire Department, at the Hilltop
Bowling Alley. Nearly 50 mountain residents gathered to hear a
plea from Owens, Robert Voss, a fire prevention specialist from Fresno,
and Stanley Hartwell, the Oakhurst Chamber of Commerce president, to
fireproof their homes and outbuildings.
"We've been
knocking on doors for more than a year, trying to im press upon
people the necessity of removing the grass and brush from around their
homes," Owens is quoted as saying.
Many of the
homes were shaded by oak trees, which grew over roofs and against
walls. The trees became flaming pyres, and touched off many
of those structures lost in the Harlow.
"Considering
the confusion and the many demands put on the fire suppression
agencies, I think everyone concerned did a good job." Metcalf says.
Puhn agrees adding:
"While there
were instances of confusion, mistakes and failure, to take proper
action among the forces mobilized , these were at a minimum for a
disaster of this size.
"Metcalf
deployed men and equipment in the most effective ways known to fire
fighting agencies to halt a conflagration of this kind. The great
importance in the quick control of this fire was that the
communities of NOrth Fork, Bass Lake and Sugar Pine were spared the
fate of Nipinnawasee and Ahwahnee.
"As proud as I
am of our fire fighting forces, I cannot claim they could have done
better in a situation of this kind."
It was not
until after the disastrous firestorm that additional help
arrived. Twenty two civil defense trucks and personnel from
throughout the state came too late to help the two communities.
"Maybe it was a
good thing there were not more men and equipment in the path of the
firestorm," Metcalf says. "Chances are we might have lost a good many
of both. There were times when men and equipment were idle,
but this was not when the two towns burned.
"Hundreds of
sightseers tried to get past road blocks, and this added to the
officers' probelms. As a result, many residents were stopped from
returning to their homes."
transcribed by
c feroben
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